On adult ADD and impulse purchases

(This is about four or five forum posts omnibus’d together)

CHAOS

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It’s a 101.20200, which is made by Atlas, sold under the Craftsman brand.

I spent a night fixing the power feed, and then 2 minutes breaking the traverse gear with the power feed. Whoops. New parts on order ($50 from ebay, damn what I’ll pay to keep this going). It’s like adult playdoh. Feeling the HSS bit, that I ground myself and leveled with a 3D printed level, dig into a bar of aluminum was pretty awesome.

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In hindsight, I probably should have purchased one of those mini lathes from HF or Grizzly or Amazon (same factory for all), but this one came with that sweet workbench. The top is a solid core door. I paid about 350, but another $120 in parts (live center, cutters, chuck, etc). Plus, it’s an old model with flat instead of V ways. It is, I think, technically a 6×18, which isn’t that big at all.

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Lathe pics a few days old. More to come next weekend. I have some items for the bus planned πŸ˜€

(E: the drill bit in the chuck was just to check if the chuck was true before my other pieces arrived in the mail)

Fuck expensive $50 drum switches. I’ve got a 3 phase cam switch laying around…

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(This will be back to Bus stuff soon. All related)

Reversing switch. Left for reverse, right for forward.

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(Note the square grey cover where there used to be an outlet facing upwards – that’s a 3D printed custom switchplate to hold my emergency “OFF” paddle switch. Better than an outlet facing upwards near a metal chip machine)

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3D printed case, pretty damned solid inside. 95% infill, 4 solid walls, 5mm wall thickness with a 0.40mm nozzle. Printed slightly higher than normal temperature, to increase layer bonding and strength (at a sacrifice of surface finish). Then, hit with some grey weld-through spray paint (so it’s technically grounded).

Running the lathe in reverse is tricky, because it’s a screw-on chuck (1 inch 10TPI) and if the chuck isn’t well on there it can pop off. Probably only good at really slow speeds (I did have the chuck spin off during testing once, but I had it up at near max speed, 1300 RPM or so).

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3D Printing, even though it’s not appropriate for a lot of things people use it for, is HUGE for project boxes and similar doodads and holders for me. No sawdust, no glue. I even modeled a chuck/tailstock center holder, gonna print that tomorrow. Has room for all the tailstock stuff, my center punch, chuck key, and chuck arms.

Got the switch wired up and installed. I tested my wiring by running the shop vac through it for 20-30 minutes and pulling it apart to check wire temperature.
Seems pretty good πŸ˜€

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I turned some aluminum today to practice. On the higher speeds, I can take 30 thou depth of cut at a reasonable pace, using HSS cutters that I ground myself using this tutorial from This Old Tony:

On lower speeds, 20-30 is fine. I did a 50 thou for shits and giggles, and it did it, but was not happy. I also didn’t tighten the 3-jaw (1 inch, 10 TPI, 1-10) jaws down as tightly as I should, and jammed the cutter and bounced the table. Whoops.

Got myself an OxA (or 0xA) sized quick change tool post. The OxA is exactly 60% the size of a standard AxA.

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Finished 3D printing a toolbit leveling tool:

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Designed and printed 4 of these bad boys. They hold the spare tool holders.

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They are designed so that I can either pop a magnet into the back and stick them on a toolbox or the metal workbench, bolt them into somewhere, or pop a wood screw in the bottom to screw them to the bench. Haven’t decided yet. They also hold the tools freestanding, so they’re not resting on the dovetail mating surfaces. Might seem dumb, but I promise that, in the end, I do like things organized.

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