On adult ADD and impulse purchases

(This is about four or five forum posts omnibus’d together)

CHAOS

mODCK7ih.jpg

N8uEbTlh.jpg

vqhphfVh.jpg

It’s a 101.20200, which is made by Atlas, sold under the Craftsman brand.

I spent a night fixing the power feed, and then 2 minutes breaking the traverse gear with the power feed. Whoops. New parts on order ($50 from ebay, damn what I’ll pay to keep this going). It’s like adult playdoh. Feeling the HSS bit, that I ground myself and leveled with a 3D printed level, dig into a bar of aluminum was pretty awesome.

n88MADsh.jpg
In hindsight, I probably should have purchased one of those mini lathes from HF or Grizzly or Amazon (same factory for all), but this one came with that sweet workbench. The top is a solid core door. I paid about 350, but another $120 in parts (live center, cutters, chuck, etc). Plus, it’s an old model with flat instead of V ways. It is, I think, technically a 6×18, which isn’t that big at all.

Q06QWWch.jpg

nOFulExh.jpg

exhYe9nh.jpg

ztlYR5Jh.jpg

4rgI4Ydh.jpg

pawUHOFh.jpg

juvLrA3h.jpg

tliVQ36h.jpg

bH77TP7h.jpg

EQq3ZMQh.jpg

Lathe pics a few days old. More to come next weekend. I have some items for the bus planned 😀

(E: the drill bit in the chuck was just to check if the chuck was true before my other pieces arrived in the mail)

Fuck expensive $50 drum switches. I’ve got a 3 phase cam switch laying around…

aKwar2uh.png

1uSfmye.png

Hj442Eah.jpg

(This will be back to Bus stuff soon. All related)

Reversing switch. Left for reverse, right for forward.

ouyMl1Jh.jpg
(Note the square grey cover where there used to be an outlet facing upwards – that’s a 3D printed custom switchplate to hold my emergency “OFF” paddle switch. Better than an outlet facing upwards near a metal chip machine)

Qto863Mh.jpg

90tTV8Uh.jpg

3D printed case, pretty damned solid inside. 95% infill, 4 solid walls, 5mm wall thickness with a 0.40mm nozzle. Printed slightly higher than normal temperature, to increase layer bonding and strength (at a sacrifice of surface finish). Then, hit with some grey weld-through spray paint (so it’s technically grounded).

Running the lathe in reverse is tricky, because it’s a screw-on chuck (1 inch 10TPI) and if the chuck isn’t well on there it can pop off. Probably only good at really slow speeds (I did have the chuck spin off during testing once, but I had it up at near max speed, 1300 RPM or so).

QWEgHyf.png

GaWXrKD.png

3D Printing, even though it’s not appropriate for a lot of things people use it for, is HUGE for project boxes and similar doodads and holders for me. No sawdust, no glue. I even modeled a chuck/tailstock center holder, gonna print that tomorrow. Has room for all the tailstock stuff, my center punch, chuck key, and chuck arms.

Got the switch wired up and installed. I tested my wiring by running the shop vac through it for 20-30 minutes and pulling it apart to check wire temperature.
Seems pretty good 😀

i9KfFQrh.jpg

n8zIGFsh.jpg

I turned some aluminum today to practice. On the higher speeds, I can take 30 thou depth of cut at a reasonable pace, using HSS cutters that I ground myself using this tutorial from This Old Tony:

On lower speeds, 20-30 is fine. I did a 50 thou for shits and giggles, and it did it, but was not happy. I also didn’t tighten the 3-jaw (1 inch, 10 TPI, 1-10) jaws down as tightly as I should, and jammed the cutter and bounced the table. Whoops.

Got myself an OxA (or 0xA) sized quick change tool post. The OxA is exactly 60% the size of a standard AxA.

numfmesh.jpg

Finished 3D printing a toolbit leveling tool:

NiwvYW5h.jpg

Designed and printed 4 of these bad boys. They hold the spare tool holders.

TIBcjlth.jpg

NTGfvFEh.jpg

tkEU3cnh.jpg

kpf469fh.jpg

They are designed so that I can either pop a magnet into the back and stick them on a toolbox or the metal workbench, bolt them into somewhere, or pop a wood screw in the bottom to screw them to the bench. Haven’t decided yet. They also hold the tools freestanding, so they’re not resting on the dovetail mating surfaces. Might seem dumb, but I promise that, in the end, I do like things organized.

On commutes

Big update! 56k beware!

Now that summer is coming, it’s time to finish the heater install! :v:

Before, the heater intake was just underneath the bed. It took a long, LONG time, but I finally got the right size intake duct tubing in the mail (seriously, it came from Turkey, and took 3 months). This means I could plumb the heater intake into the passenger cabin so it can re-heat the air, and circulate it around. Without that, it was possible it was pulling cold outside air in, greatly reducing efficiency.

Bh8Q9fth.jpg

RLTWichh.jpg

Hole cut and filed for the intake grate.
Fmcm8Wuh.jpg

Dc1OlMPh.jpg

I also “installed” the spare spark plug holder. Couldn’t really find a better spot, and it works.
qlAT3cmh.jpg

bljy240h.jpg

And now, a change of pace. I’m going to skip over a lot of the interpersonal life stuff, but in a nutshell, my daily commute moved from 18 miles over mostly surface streets, to 30 miles over mostly freeway. The past three weeks or so, I’d been driving the bus to work on the freeway. It was miserable. The way home at night was better, because I get off of work after midnight. However, the way to work in heavy, fast-moving traffic was nerve-wracking with only 60 horsepower and the aerodynamics of a brick.

My state tax refund came in, so I started looking at Craigslist pretty heavily. I had four requirements for whatever vehicle I would eventually purchase:

1: It had to have enough power to be “comfortable” on the freeway.
2: It had to have noticeably better fuel economy than the bus (17/17, city/highway)
3: Parts needed to be cheap in the event of repairs
4: It needed to be known for reliability, at least in general

For a few days I was hung up on a Lexus LS400. They are known to be big, V8, reliable monsters, that can occasionally hit more than a million (!) miles on their original engines/transmissions. In addition, they could be found relatively cheaply.

Unfortunately, even the youngest of the LS400 fleet are over 20 years old. Even the best-engineered vehicles start nickle-and-diming you to death with rubber and plastic components after 20.

But, the LS400 did give me ideas about another mass-produced, highway-eater car. One that would have cheap parts available indefinitely due to its widespread use. And, after only a day of searching, I found what looked to be the perfect one:

RvcDUXzh.jpg

HDQ7QWJh.jpg

That’s right, I bought a Crown Vic. 2008 to be precise. 154k miles, and no back seat, but otherwise in what looked like good nick. Sure, the paint is chipping pretty much everywhere, it had a cataract, and the hour meter says it’s been in park or neutral for over 4100 (!) hours, but it is a fleet vehicle and hopefully had been maintained pretty well. And it has A/C! Oh, A/C, how I’ve missed your sweet, cooling breeze.

I bought it for a hair under $2k, and then promptly spent $200 on registration, $220 on parts, and $50 on gas. But, it was mine. Thankfully, it also came with a Class III (even though the platform is only Class II rated) tow hitch installed. I immediately put it to work rescuing the last thing I had left at my old house, the Enfield.

o7Df7TYh.jpg

The Enfield hasn’t run for over two years. Dead battery (even with the CTEK tender), and gnarly blow-by issues (probably needs new rings and a hone, or even a new piston). But I just couldn’t leave it behind.

So, today, I went to a Walmart and bought a trailer wiring kit, installed it, and headed to Uhaul to get their cheapest, smallest trailer.
aOrlKRHh.jpg

xrVO5jWh.jpg

Loaded up with only the finest $10 for 4 Harbor Freight ratchet straps (it was all I had)
1C7zI9gh.jpg

kvbOyy9h.jpg

After I got back from returning the trailer, the package with my new headlamps had arrived. I only bought them, from Ebay, 40 hours prior! Things really move fast nowadays, and living in a central shipping warehouse city helps a lot. They may only last a year or two before they oxidize, but at least they’ll hopefully do it at the same rate as each other.
zApwbwkh.jpg

ZwN5C9Kh.jpg

R6ch1z2h.jpg

I even bought the stupid (but, turns out, pretty much required) $13 headlight adjustment tool so I could go out that night (tonight) and aim them properly.
ZqVDLqKh.jpg

Vm8e4qah.jpg

WUGrioyh.jpg

And then, of course, I took a few beauty shots. Wouldn’t be a true Panther platform owner without gratuitous, badly-lit photos!
lHnT4zoh.jpg

ivfxTUIh.jpg

I even “fixed” the wiring for the spotlight. Well, less “fix” and more “jiggle things about a lot and spray Deoxit! in all the crevices until it worked.” But still.
erM0Dq3h.jpg

After doing the headlights, and letting the engine cool a bit, it was time to tackle some basic maintenance. There’s a reason the SomethingAwful thread for the Panther platform is called, “Live Axles and Dead Coils.” The Coil-On-Plug (COP, no pun intended) coils tend to go bad after what seems to be 100k or so. The car drove fine for me 90% of the time, but if I had it in Drive, idling with my foot on the brake, the engine would miss and stumble if I turned the A/C on. Turning the A/C on causes additional engine load, and it may have been just enough stress for some intermittently-faulty coils to start misfiring.

I would live with misfiring if it didn’t eventually mean I’d damage the (expensive) catalytic converters, so I spent $50 (marked down from, allegedly, $325) for a box of eight new coils. I also grabbed some new platinum-tip spark plugs.

Four hours and eight bloody knuckles later, and I had the plugs and coils switched out.
phHUfK3h.jpg

tjlglGWh.jpg

The old coils:
x0VrH91h.jpg

And the old plugs:
wvQPvzvh.jpg

Three of the plugs, the three closest to the firewall on the passenger side, had oil in the threads :ohdear:. The tips weren’t oil-fouled, as shown in the picture, but maybe that’s something I should keep an eye on. The oil level was half a quart low when I got the car, too.

I also bought an FM Modulator (not a transmitter, strictly speaking) that jacks in-between the radio antenna and the headunit. This lets you add an aux port to pretty much any stereo. I don’t see anything particularly wrong with the stock Ford headunit, so I thought this would be a good, cost-conscious compromise until I get a bug up my ass (and money back in my bank account) and finally decide to replace it with something else. I really just listen to podcasts (shout out to Reply All and The Dollop!), along with occasional NPR. Except for maybe a subwoofer in the future, this is all I really need. Though, it is weird that the 45-year-old Volkswagen bus has a better, bluetooth-enabled stereo and sound system than a 2008 Crown Victoria. :shrug:

HKjfc5fh.png

qaLMhByh.jpg

jaylqVQh.jpg

Today was a busy, good day.

On doubling down

UUUPPPPDDDDAAAATTTEEEE

No furniture yet (see genchat for personal BS updates), but the first thing I got running was the 3D printer:

LwxOmwzh.jpg

Time to rip out the old single centermount progressive carburetor. It served me well as a stopgap, but I’m tired of 13MPG and it running like shit when cold.

However, the new dual-mount carb setup (that arrived one day before I had to move) didn’t come with a tee for the brake booster vacuum line. Since I had already started disassembling the bus for the swap, I had to make do with the tools I had on hand.

YeXGP0oh.jpg

L1v6KJbh.jpg

vofWNrKh.jpg

4Fg3Vdkh.jpg

And installed:

Ll4LqNBh.jpg

LD6XZ0Mh.jpg

This is the Dual 40mm Kadron (Brosol) carb setup from lowbugget.com . They take the carbs they can find in kits, bush them (most EMPI carbs etc don’t come with bushings on the throttle shafts, etc), mill the mating surfaces flat, drill and tap for vacuum advance, re-jet them for your particular application, and file out and fix the fuel spray holes.

A stock 40mm Kadron kit costs around $300-400 from various sources, and these from LowBugget cost me $750. That’s a lot of money, and it took them FIVE weeks to make, but so far they seem worth it. Even with minimal “tuning” (balancing by ear, not with a gauge just to run up the street), they’re already better than anything else I’ve ever had. I’ll update later with MPG numbers.

When I ordered, he asked me my engine size, whether or not I needed to pass emissions, my load (do I tow / run a camper / daily runabout / street racer / etc), driving style, and a bunch of other questions.

On idioms pt II

Kicked up on the curb, so I have a little more room when underneath.

CsQbB8Uh.jpg

afUh5FMh.jpg

The driver’s side is/was technically worse. The foam is overspray from when I did the interior sealing and insulating last year.

6OosQjwh.jpg

HqNfzFIh.jpg

MKFMshah.jpg

Ripped some of the foam out (so it won’t get in the way / be on the other side of things I’m welding), and broke out the other KLOKKERHOLM EINSTIEGBLECH, INNERER TEIL.

dSxojRuh.jpg

This is the “easy” version, and was pre-cut for clearances.

NifXQeYh.jpg

Vo3aBwth.jpg

Again, the magic of welding

GYPE99Th.jpg

BlegqCQh.jpg

srXN0Rjh.jpg

Covered in weld-through primer

1jF8DOrh.jpg

gseujNSh.jpg

And, I went a bit crazy covering the bondoed areas.

qnoblXBh.jpg

Not pictured: I did some more welding on the passenger side, ground down the welds a bunch, and used a veritable metric ton of seam sealer to cover up all of my shame.

On idioms

“A grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t.”

The bus technically doesn’t have a passenger side sill plate. Way back when I first got the bus, you saw me [badly] weld a driver’s side outer sill on. I still have the inner sill to go on the driver’s side, but welding upside-down sucks so much that I’ve put it off. The bus clearly sat on the wet ground for awhile with no axles in place, because the only rust on the bus is right where it would have contacted the dirt. Rest of the body? Solid. Bottom 2-4 inches (in places)? Holy shit. Time to continue fixing that.

The sliding door seal is a square piece of rubber, that goes in four channels around the door opening. The bottom channel is actually a part of the sill plate, which had been MIA since I bought the thing:
HcYIxZth.jpg

8f9NPjFh.jpg

Ly2ig4Dh.jpg

Inside view:
pLJB3jah.jpg

1vtaR03h.jpg

7Z5LXZNh.jpg

VWv7tcTh.jpg

That front jacking point isn’t looking too hot, either:
3IkhqR5h.jpg
(I’ll have to fix that later, when money eventually pokes its head again. Maybe next tax season?)

The PO (previous owner) had already started on the passenger side. This is the piece near the rear passenger wheel. It looks riveted on, which scares me a bit, but nothing I can do about it right now.
q4obAohh.jpg

Time to break out my freshly-purchased KLOKKERHOLM BAGSKAERM / KARROSSERISIDE, SIDEPLADE HOJKE!
iHAOxMOh.jpg

Or, simply, RIGHT ROCKER PANEL, BUS
5IC756Mh.jpg
:shrug:

Now, the outer rocker panel, that holds the door seal and is the part that you see, is one solid piece. I only had to trim the end length a bit. The inner rocker panel, however, has to be trimmed and cut around where the frame rails intersect it. They sell pre-trimmed inner rocker pieces, but they generally cost more, and are difficult to find sometimes. Only the driver’s side was available trimmed when I purchased this metal, so I used it as a kind of “mirrored template” for the passenger side piece, and cut the corresponding holes out of the passenger side with an angle grinder. In this pictures, you can see both the inner (notched) and outer (smaller, straight) rocker pieces.
BMRYglzh.jpg

HmMUBfph.jpg

After a lot of fettling and bending and hammering, I have the outer one mocked up in place with a few sets of vice grips.
JHtWM7Nh.jpg

Okay, there’s about 2-3 hours missing here. I’ll describe what I did: I tacked the outer rocker panel on, hammered it into place a bit more, cut away some/most of the rotted inner rocker panel, test-fit and trimmed the inner panel some more (this was about a full hour of it), tacked the inner panel in place, and then finally spent about 45 minutes just tacking the pieces together with my shitty buzzbox welder and nonexistent welder skills. Somewhere in the middle, I broke an LED light bulb in my work light, and got UV-burns on my arms.

I think I’m going to need about 2…gallons of seam sealer. Prepare your souls for what you’re about to see.
GYdcNYFh.jpg

0msuRlGh.jpg

4wkTJneh.jpg

Vm455jSh.jpg

4Ky8wnWh.jpg

Welders are magic. They allow me, a random average Joe off of the street, to transform metal, electricity, and time into a complete scrapheap, effortlessly. What a time to be alive!

Oh and then the sun fell and I finally fit the door seal, the whole reason for today’s adventure. But whatever.
nuF3voUh.jpg

YXEy78sh.jpg

h287I7Th.jpg

The side door seal I fit today is a genuine German-made seal, that cost around $60-70. The seals I fit on the doors last weekend were aftermarket Brazilian door seals, which were $50 for the set of 2.

Buy the genuine German stuff. Sometimes — and I hate to say this — but the German-worshipping greybeards on TheSamba are right. Like a broken clock, but sometimes yes.

On 3D Printer Upgrades (for more bus parts!)

I think this fits here, as I 3D print so many parts on the bus.

After doing the door seals, I checked the mail and noticed that the upgrade parts for my 3D printer have come in. It’s a Rostock Max V2 that I built from a kit (but have upgraded heavily since, with different stepper motors, different hotends, filament rollers, arm tensioners, sealed bearings, custom firmware tweaks, etc etc) in 2013.

SeeMeCNC has updated a lot of parts along the way, including professional versions of community fixes, as well as updates of their own. Since I sold the beetle recently, I had a little spare scratch, and ordered most of the upgrade parts.

The printer as it was this morning (moved to my desk, which has the living room TV on it, for access)
WGmKulOh.jpg

N75ioarh.jpg

PEI sheet:
yKw9oFzh.jpg

E3D V6 hotend, with custom connector for removal and repair
HP6IlSlh.jpg

Starting construction on the new hotend. This is the HE280, which has a built-in accelerometer probe that detects when the hotend touches the print bed. This is used with a script for auto-leveling and mesh bed adjustment.
bp4Xuu0h.jpg

ylUx8Uvh.jpg

Working with the guide right there.
MAkehcsh.jpg

Thermistor and heater wires soldered in. The reason the thermistor and heater are soldered to the PCB on the hotend itself, instead of run with wires all the way back to the RAMBo control board, is that the hotend communicates via i2c (“eye squared see”, according to James Bruton on YT – I’ve never used it before) with the control board, and just has a big power wire run to it. This reduces the number of wires that would have to run back to the board, and means you don’t have to add any additional ones if you’re upgrading. A huge boon, because removing the vertical aluminum arms is a pain in the dick.
l2T7u8Bh.jpg

1CXQpE4h.jpg

Fan sockets soldered, pcb mount screwed on.
aBcZDelh.jpg

You can use the new hotend with the old U-joint arms, or the new ball-socket arms. I also ordered new ball socket arms, so I assembled the end effector platform with that option.
IFbxnC1h.jpg

Add three fans, and screw it all together.
IqPPTiBh.jpg

2rna4Mgh.jpg

KIi9Jelh.jpg

With the hotend assembled, it’s time to remove the old “cheapskate” roller carriages, and the old hotend.
fgROwirh.jpg

Then, assembly begins on the new cheapskate carraiges. These are injection molded instead of 2 sheets of heavy MDF board. This reduces movement weight of the arms, which does two things: it lets you print faster, and it reduces “ringing” in the prints, where a movement back-and forth (like when the hotend is “turning a corner” on a box-shaped print) resonates through the structure, causing print defects.

First step is to put the bearing covers on. These just press onto both sides of each bearing.
5kWzbhrh.jpg

T2LFXcGh.jpg

Then, the carriages themselves
5xcduQbh.jpg

oxDUAoXh.jpg

These get mounted to the vertical towers with a few screws, and some nifty belt tensioners. No more allen key required to loosen the tensioner, it’s two black plastic pieces (one for the top, and one for the lower, belt ends) that you can pop open with a flathead screwdriver.
x71qS0Wh.jpg

7bA7c3vh.jpg

XNlpF8Ih.jpg

Mounting the arms is easy. You just snap them on the ball joints, making sure to put the new white nylon “tensioner springs” in the slots on the arms. The arms themselves are glass fiber-reinforced nylon. I don’t know the percentage (no maker’s marks) but I can feel the glass fibers if I draw a knife tip across the plastic.
O23sKoJh.jpg

tG9hSssh.jpg

x16LmGdh.jpg

Then comes wiring. I won’t get into it here, just mainly picture dump. You need to follow the guide for your particular setup. The only thing I need to say (for those of us with V2s, upgrading) is that the Y-axis stepper motor connector needs to be reversed. The new firmware is set up to invert the Y-axis stepper, I think to reduce crosstalk and interference between movements, and issues it can cause with the auto-calibration script. There are two ways to do this: if you have non-polarized plugs like I do, you simply flip the connector upside-down. If you have polarized connectors, you can either shave off the polarization clip to allow you to plug it in upside-down, or you need to go into configuration.h before you upload the upgraded firmware, and set INVERT_Y to “FALSE.”
gBI6qlWh.jpg

Picture showing the stepper motor connections. Note that the “Y” stepper, in the middle, isn’t inverted yet (the wires are in the same order as X and Z)
XTaV8NHh.jpg

Wiring in the lid:
yITV2zsh.jpg

WDI8hbth.jpg

AaZgCh0h.jpg

DDz3PQ2h.jpg

3TSWJo4h.jpg

RAMBo board before removal:
FJNxO0Wh.jpg

Board back in:
9REiCwAh.jpg

Calibrating extrusion steps (how many “steps” in motor revolution per mm of extrustion)
Fo2Q543h.jpg

sgUsw0ch.jpg

On my first calibration run, where the extruder comes down and taps the plate, I noticed it was skipping across a few of the taps, squashing into the bed. I installed a few clip-on ferrite beads, like in this video. However, to reduce hotend weight, I didn’t install them at the hotend itself. I put one in the lid, on the power wires running to the extruder. I also put one right next to the connector on the RAMBo board, on the same wire. Also, since I have a box of like fifty of them, I put one on the i2c communication line. You may notice in earlier pictures you can see one or two of them on some wires in the lid – those are ineffective, and I’m using them simply for weights to help in wire management. For a ferrite bead to work best, you should wrap the wires at least one turn around the bead, and run them through again. That’s why I buy clip-on beads instead of standard ones like in the video, because you can install them without unplugging anything or removing connector wires.

Even after only one print, using the same gcode file (in particular, the one for my Alternator Adjustment Bolt Cover), the quality is through the roof. The arms are much sturdier, the movement is quieter (new firmware adjustments), and everything is smoother. The photo above doesn’t do anything justice, as that was during extrustion calibration. It was over-extruding, and that photo was with some carbon fiber-reinforced filament, which is always blobby on the first layer for me. I’m extremely happy.

All-in-all, you could do all the upgrades in maybe 3 hours. I was watching Netflix and texting a bunch, so it took me maybe 4 or 5 total.

On ease of use

e: ^^^^ It’s probably long enough that it hit the wheel itself and bent over, maybe? I honestly think it’s sabotage – one of my neighbors’ ex-wives comes over randomly between 2 and 6 month increments, and randomly breaks shit. She’s the one that slashed the tires on my beetle, broke the window to the bus out, pulled boards from my fence, etc etc. I refrain to type anything out that indicates my attitude towards her 2 AM drunken hispanic yelling and vandalism.

Had some dental work done this morning (only took 18 months from my deployment to get that through – Thanks, Army!), so I can’t do anything too intense or I get mad pounding in my teeth and jaw. No welding or lifting, etc.

So, I replaced the front door seals. Not much to type. Pull old seals, clean up channels, put some glue in the channels (using black RTV/Window Sealant), install new seals and trim to fit. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.

VTapVxJh.jpg

T0zy6ddh.jpg

CjJKt7uh.jpg

VoQuohwh.jpg

g5usJmRh.jpg

dIPtvd4h.jpg

INrdjUKh.jpg

Fc16oOTh.jpg

90NJwo0h.jpg

SU5vzWth.jpg

GDfesDrh.jpg

Dtfqmk4h.jpg

Bonus! Now, pulling the interior handle causes the door to pop out. Before, the seals were crushed, so you had to pull the handle then elbow the door open.